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Colombian Potato Soup with Chicken, Corn and Capers (Ajiáco)
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Mariana Velásquez, food stylist and author of “Colombiana,” says the unique soup called ajiáco is much loved in Bogotá, Colombia, as well as in the surrounding areas. The dish holds special cultural significance because of its pre-Hispanic origins. We made a few adaptations to Velásquez’s recipe, namely adding cut corn kernels in addition to sections of corn on the cob, one of the defining ingredients of the rustic soup. Ajiáco made the traditional way requires three varieties of potatoes. We use varieties widely available in the U.S.—russets, which break down with cooking and lend the broth creaminess, Yukon Golds for their color and buttery flavor, and waxy potatoes, added near the end of cooking, that retain their dense, firm texture. Guascas is an herb used to season ajiáco, but it’s difficult to come by in the U.S. If you can find it, by all means, use it; otherwise, Velásquez suggests substituting an equal amount of chopped celery leaves. Offer lots of napkins at the table, as you’ll need your fingers as well as a spoon to enjoy this meal in a bowl.
6
Servings
Don’t forget to remove the skin from the chicken breasts before adding them to the pot. This will prevent the broth from becoming greasy.
1¾ hours
30 minutes active
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2
pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts, skin removed and discarded
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1
pound russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds
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1
pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds
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4
scallions, trimmed
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4
ears corn, husks and silk removed, kernels cut off 2 ears, cobs and kernels reserved separately, 2 ears cut into 3 pieces each
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2
medium celery stalks, halved crosswise
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10-12
cilantro sprigs
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3
medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
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Kosher salt and ground black pepper
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1
pound small waxy potatoes, such as Red Bliss or yellow or white creamers, unpeeled, sliced into ¼-inch rounds
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2
tablespoons dried guascas (optional; see headnote)
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½
cup drained capers
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2
ripe avocados, halved, pitted, peeled and cut into wedges
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¾
cup heavy cream
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01Place the chicken breasts in a large (at least 8-quart) pot. Add the russet and Yukon Gold potatoes, scallions, corn cobs (without kernels), celery, cilantro, garlic, 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Add 6 cups water and bring to a simmer over high, occasionally skimming off and discarding the foam that rises to the top. Reduce to medium and simmer, uncovered, until the thickest part of the chicken breasts reach 160°F, 25 to 30 minutes.
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02When the chicken is done, use tongs to transfer it to a plate; set aside. Remove and discard the corn cobs, celery, scallions and cilantro from the broth. Stir in the cut pieces of corn on the cob and the waxy potatoes. Return to a simmer over medium-high, then reduce to medium and simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Transfer the corn on the cob to a bowl. Continue cooking the soup, stirring occasionally, until the waxy potatoes are tender and some of the other potatoes have begun to break down, another 20 to 25 minutes.
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03Meanwhile, shred the chicken breasts into bite-size pieces, discarding the bones. Transfer to a bowl, cover and set aside until ready to serve.
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04Add the corn kernels and guascas (if using) to the pot. Cook, stirring often and scraping along the bottom of the pot to prevent scorching, until the corn is tender-crisp, about 5 minutes. If desired, thin the soup with a little hot water. Taste and season with salt and pepper, then remove from the heat.
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05To serve, place the capers and avocados in separate bowls; put the cream into a small pitcher. Ladle the soup into individual bowls. Serve with the corn on the cob, chicken, capers, avocados and cream, allowing diners to garnish their bowls as desired.