German-Style Winter Squash Bread

Adapted by Rose Hattabaugh

Makes one 1¾-pound loaf

6 hours 45 minutes active, plus cooling

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This inviting, impressive braided loaf gets its warm, golden hue from roasted butternut squash. The squash also gives the crumb a moistness, and the milk, eggs and butter lend a brioche-like richness. The German bread called Kürbisbrot (pumpkin bread, literally translated), in particular Luisa Weiss’ recipe from her book “Classic German Baking,” was our starting point for this autumnal loaf. Kürbisbrot is commonly shaped as a simple round loaf, but we took Weiss’ suggestion and made a special-occasion bread by forming the dough into a braid. We also added a touch of allspice for a warm, subtle fragrance and a sprinkle of pumpkin seeds just before baking. The dough is soft and sticky but also strong and elastic; it requires a sturdy stand mixer to develop a solid gluten structure and would be difficult to make this dough by hand. When you turn the dough out of the mixer bowl, it may seem too wet and batter-like to be shapeable, but with rising and refrigerating, it becomes workable. Store leftover bread at room temperature in an airtight container or zip-close bag for up to three days. It makes great toast once it begins to stale.

Makes one

1¾-pound loaf

Tip

Don’t be tempted to use canned squash instead of roasted fresh squash. Its flavor is more muted and its water content alters the moistness of the dough. Also, don’t forget to bring the butter to room temperature before starting the recipe, as it needs to be very soft in order to incorporate properly into the batter-like dough. Finally, don’t add too much more flour during kneading, before the butter is mixed in. If the dough pulls away cleanly from the sides of the bowl, it contains enough flour.

6 hours

45 minutes active, plus cooling

1 1/2-2 pound butternut squash, halved lengthwise and seeded

1/4 cup whole milk

42 grams (2 tablespoons) honey

3 large eggs, divided

406 grams (3 cups plus 2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour, plus more as needed and for dusting

1 teaspoon instant yeast

3/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon table salt

57 grams (4 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into 4 pieces, room temperature

30 grams (3 tablespoons) pumpkin seeds, chopped

Ingredients

1½-2

pound butternut squash, halved lengthwise and seeded
¼

cup whole milk
42

grams (2 tablespoons) honey
3

large eggs, divided
406

grams (3 cups plus 2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour, plus more as needed and for dusting
1

teaspoon instant yeast
¾

teaspoon ground allspice
1

teaspoon table salt
57

grams (4 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into 4 pieces, room temperature
30

grams (3 tablespoons) pumpkin seeds, chopped

Directions

01

Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the middle position. Mist a rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray. Place the squash halves cut side down on the prepared baking sheet and roast until a skewer inserted through the neck of the squash meets no resistance, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven, turn the squash halves cut side up and set aside until cool enough to handle.
02

Scoop the flesh out of the skins into a large bowl; discard the skins. Using a silicone spatula, mash the flesh until smooth. If the squash is still warm, let cool completely. Measure 230 grams (1 cup) of the squash into a medium bowl; reserve the remainder for another use. To the squash, add the milk, honey and 2 eggs. Whisk until homogeneous; set aside. Mist a large bowl with cooking spray.
03

In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix the flour, yeast, allspice and salt on low until combined, about 20 seconds. With the mixer running, gradually pour in the squash mixture, then continue mixing until a wet, slightly lumpy dough forms, about 2 minutes, scraping the bowl once. Increase to medium and knead the mixture, scraping the bowl once or twice, until it pulls away cleanly from the sides, 5 to 6 minutes. If it sticks to the bowl, add 2 tablespoons flour and knead for about 2 minutes before assessing if even more flour is needed.
04

Add the butter one piece at a time and mix until it is almost fully incorporated, about 30 seconds, before adding another piece. After all the butter has been added, mix on medium until the dough is smooth and elastic and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 7 to 9 minutes. Detach the bowl and hook from the mixer, then lift out the hook with dough clinging to it; the dough should fall from the hook and stretch into a translucent “pane.” If it breaks before forming a pane, continue kneading on medium for another 1 to 2 minutes, then test again. The dough will resemble a stretchy, webby batter.
05

Using a plastic dough scraper or silicone spatula, scrape the dough into the prepared bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until bubbles form on the surface, about 1 hour. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours.
06

Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment. Lightly flour the counter. Turn the dough out onto the counter and divide it into 3 even portions. Lightly flour your hands and roll each portion into an 18-inch rope.
07

Position the ropes perpendicular to the counter’s edge but parallel to each other; flour the counter as needed. Firmly pinch together the far ends of the ropes.
08

Flour your fingers, then lift the right rope, cross it over the middle rope and lay it between the other 2; adjust the spacing of the ropes as you go.
09

Now cross the left rope over the new middle rope and lay it between the other 2.
10

Repeat the braiding until you reach the ends of the ropes. Firmly pinch together the ends. Tuck the 2 pinched ends under the loaf.
11

Transfer the loaf to the prepared baking sheet; gently reshape, if needed. Mist a large sheet of plastic wrap with cooking spray and drape it, greased side down, over the loaf. Lay a kitchen towel on top. Let rise at room temperature until doubled in size and the dough springs back slowly when lightly pressed with a fingertip, about 1½ hours. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position.
12

In a small bowl, beat the remaining egg. Lightly brush the dough with the beaten egg, then sprinkle evenly with the pumpkin seeds. Bake until golden brown and the center of the loaf reaches 190°F to 200°F, 30 to 35 minutes. Let the loaf cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack for about 10 minutes. Transfer the bread, still on the parchment, directly to the rack. Cool for at least 1 hour before slicing.

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Reviews

Patrica M.

January 29, 2023

German Winter Squash bread

I made this for the first time in 2023. It is light, tasty and definitely a bread to make over and over again. When it came out of the oven the aroma was so enticing that we sliced it immediately and let the butter melt into the golden slices. The bread never had time to cool before we had finished the loaf. Try it, you’ll like it.

Scott W.

January 23, 2023

Absolutely delicious

I made this last Sunday and it was incredibly delicious. It is light and airy with a very good flavor. This is a keeper.

Susan G.

December 16, 2022

Perfect holiday bread

Made this for the Thanksgiving holiday with my uncle and aunt, who spent a decade in Germany. They loved the flavor and texture of the bread and it turned out to be a favorite of my picky grandchildren.

Lynn L.

November 2, 2022

Pretty needs more flavor for my taste buds

Just made this recipe because it sounded interesting with the butternut squash. The bread itself was a great texture and color and braiding the bread was a great touch. I do like bolder flavored breads so the flavors were not as strong as I would have liked. For the next round, I am going to roast and pan sear the squash after it roasts for more caramelization before I mash it. Also, add more allspice(2x?) and use a different salt or more of the same salt. Can't wait!

Julie K.

What flour would you recommend to make this bread gluten free?

Lynn C.

Hi Julie -

We would recommend a gluten-free flour blend that also contains xanthan gum, such as Bob's Red Mill Gluten-Free 1 for 1 Baking Flour or Cup4Cup Multipurpose Flour. Nut flours won't provide enough structure for this bread.

Best,
The Milk Street Team

Judie G.

This was easy and wonderful. The only thing I wish they stated was the size of the rimmed baking sheet. As I feel the size I used was TOO big and the bread was more flat then high. But still tasted great.

Mary B.

My loaf was also flatter than I wanted. Beautiful, but not tall. In hindsight, I wish I had made the three ropes shorter and thicker. Taste was lovely but the texture was a bit dry--much like challah. Our family didn't devour it like I hoped/imaged, so we used the leftovers as wonderful French toast.

Bettie H.

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Jennifer B.

Outstanding bread, easy on the eyes and the palate! Also great way to get rid of butternut squash.