This recipe is our weeknight adaptation of djej mechoui, which translates from the Arabic as “grilled chicken.” Made the Moroccan way, the bird is seasoned with spices and herbs, along with smen, or fermented butter, before cooking. For our version, we throw together a simple spice-and-herb infused butter and brush it onto chicken leg quarters that then are roasted in a hot oven. The best way to lightly crush the cumin seeds is with a mortar with a pestle, or you can pulse them in a spice grinder. Either way, be careful not to process them to a powder so they retain their texture. Smoked paprika is a Spanish spice, but it lends rich color along with a flavor evocative of outdoor grilling.