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Oaxacan Refried Black Beans
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In Oaxaca, black beans are a part of almost every meal. Though they sometimes are served whole, we especially liked the balanced, complex flavor and smooth, velvety consistency of refried black beans. We got a lesson in the importance of the daily basic from Rodolfo Castellanos, Oaxaca native and winner of Top Chef Mexico, and his mother. Lard gives these beans a rich meatiness, but coconut oil is a good vegetarian substitute. For a quicker version, see our pressure cooker variation. The beans can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week. We liked this topped with cotija and fresh cilantro.
6
Servings
Don't soak the beans before cooking. Unlike other types of dried beans, black beans soften readily without soaking. And don't forget to reserve the bean cooking liquid; you'll need 2 cups when pureeing the beans in the food processor. And if you'll be making black bean soup, you'll need 3 cups to thin the beans. The liquid also is useful for thinning the beans when reheating (they thicken as they stand).
2¾ hours
35 minutes active
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4
tablespoons lard or refined coconut oil, divided
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1
large white onion, chopped
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1
pint grape or cherry tomatoes
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5
guajillo chilies, stemmed and seeded
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1
pound dried black beans, rinsed
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10
medium garlic cloves, peeled and kept whole, plus 5 medium garlic cloves, minced
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3
bay leaves
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1
teaspoon aniseed
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Kosher salt and ground black pepper
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4
teaspoons ground cumin
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4
teaspoons ground coriander
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1
tablespoon ancho chili powder
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1
teaspoon dried oregano

Recipe
Black Bean Soup

Recipe
Honduran Baleadas
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01In a large pot over medium-high, heat 1 tablespoon of lard until barely smoking. Add the onion, tomatoes and guajillo chilies, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is well browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the beans, whole garlic cloves, bay and aniseed, then stir in 10 cups water. Bring to a boil, then cover partially and reduce to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are completely tender, 1½ hours to 2 hours.
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02Stir in 1 teaspoon salt. Set a colander in a large bowl and drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid. Remove and discard the bay leaves from the beans. Transfer the drained beans to a food processor and pulse a few times to break up the beans. With the machine running, add 1½ cups of the reserved cooking liquid and process until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes, scraping the bowl as needed. Taste and season with salt, then set aside.
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03In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium, heat 2 tablespoons of the remaining lard until shimmering. Add the minced garlic, cumin, coriander, chili powder and oregano, then cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
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04Stir in the pureed beans and cook, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown on the bottom, 8 to 10 minutes. Continue to cook and stir, adding reserved cooking water as needed, until the mixture has the consistency of mashed potatoes, 5 to 7 minutes. Off heat, stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon lard, then taste and season with salt and pepper.
Just finished and ate the beans, very flavorful. I did not presoak the beans, freshly ordered black beans from Gordo Rancho. I did find the skins on the beans with a bit more toughness than anticipated. The interiors were fully cooked. Do tomatoes added to the beans before they are fully cooked change the skin at all? I have read previously that may be the culprit.
If I do have access to dried avocado leaves (ordered online) would I add them after the beans are softened or add with the bay leaves? They are dried, so not sure they would rehydrate enough during the last steps of processing and refrying.
When you say lard, do you mean beef lard, or do you mean vegetable lard?