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Stir-Fried Cauliflower with Chilies and Scallions
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Served in the Hunan and Sichuan regions of China, this dish traditionally makes use of a long-stemmed variety of cauliflower with loosely packed florets that can be stir-fried in a flash. Dense Western-style cauliflower needs longer cooking, so we first brown the florets in a hot skillet, then add a little water to create steam to finish cooking them through. Be sure to cut the cauliflower into 1-inch pieces to keep the cooking time brief. Traditionally, thinly sliced pork belly flavors the stir-fry, but we opt for easier-to-find pancetta.
4
Servings
Don't use cooking sherry, which contains salt and sometimes preservatives. Instead, look for an inexpensive bottle of dry sherry from the wine store or the spirits section of your supermarket.
25 minutes
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2
tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil, plus more if needed
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1¼
pounds cauliflower (about ½ large head), trimmed and cut into 1-inch florets (about 5 cups)
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Kosher salt
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3-4
ounces pancetta, chopped
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1¼
teaspoons cumin seeds
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1
serrano chili, stemmed and sliced into thin rounds
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3
árbol chilies, broken in half
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4
scallions, white parts chopped, green parts thinly sliced on the diagonal, reserved separately
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3
medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
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2
tablespoons dry sherry
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1½
teaspoons soy sauce
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1
teaspoon unseasoned rice vinegar

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01In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until barely smoking. Add the cauliflower and stir to coat, then arrange in an even layer. Cook without stirring until beginning to brown, about 3 minutes. Stir, add ¼ cup water and ¼ teaspoon salt, then immediately cover. Cook until just tender and the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Transfer to a large plate, then wipe the skillet with paper towels.
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02In the same skillet over medium-low, cook the pancetta, stirring, until the fat has rendered and pieces are just shy of crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. There should be a thin layer of fat in the pan; if needed, add 1 to 2 teaspoons of oil. Add the cumin, both chilies, scallion whites and garlic, then cook, stirring, until fragrant, 1 minute.
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03Increase to medium-high, then return the cauliflower to the pan and add the sherry and soy sauce. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid evaporates, 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in the vinegar and scallion greens.