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Umbrian Lentil Soup (Zuppa de Lenticchie)
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In her kitchen in Perugia, Italy, home cook Silvia Buitoni taught us how to make brothy but hearty Umbrian lentil soup, or zuppa di lenticchie, a regional classic and a fine example of rustic Italian cooking. Of utmost importance, of course, are the lentils. Golden in tone with a pale green cast, Castelluccio lentils, which are grown in the Umbrian village of the same name, are the backbone of this simple but satisfying dish. Their flavor is nutty, earthy and subtly sweet, and though they become tender and plump with cooking, they still retain their shape beautifully and don’t break down as they cook. Castelluccio lentils are worth seeking out in Italian markets or online—but if you can’t find them, opt instead for French lentils du Puy, which are green-gray in color and have similar texture and flavor characteristics. Puy lentils may take a little longer to cook, so be sure to taste them for doneness.
4 to 6
Servings
Don’t cook the lentils covered for the entire time. When they’re just shy of tender, uncover the pot, turn up the burner half a notch and cook for a few more minutes. This allows some of the liquid to evaporate so the broth becomes thicker and richer.
1 hour
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3
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
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1
medium yellow onion, chopped
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2
medium celery stalks, halved lengthwise and chopped
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2
medium carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise and cut into ¼-inch pieces
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Kosher salt and ground black pepper
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2
medium garlic cloves, finely grated
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3
tablespoons tomato paste
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1¼
cups Castelluccio lentils (see headnote) or lentils du Puy, rinsed and drained
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1
tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
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¼ - ½
teaspoon red pepper flakes
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Finely grated Parmesan cheese, to serve
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01In a Dutch oven over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion, celery, carrots and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until the paste begins to brown and stick to the bottom of the pot, about 2 minutes.
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02Add 6 cups water and scrape up any browned bits. Stir in the lentils, rosemary and pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer, stirring often, then cover and reduce to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are just shy of tender, about 40 minutes.
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03Uncover, increase the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are fully tender and the soup has thickened slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. Taste and season with salt and black pepper. Serve drizzled with additional oil and sprinkled with Parmesan.
This was a very satisfying and hearty soup and will be a go-to recipe when I want to make something quick and simple that packs good flavor in a short amount of time using pretty basic pantry staples. I didn’t have celery so my version had more of a natural sweetness that I compensated for with a little lemon juice and balsamic vinegar stirred in at the end. I don’t always use Parmesan myself, but I found it really helped to add a punch of umami and rounded out all the flavors. Will be a good soup for the cooler days ahead!