This is our rendition of đậu hủ xào sả ớt, or Vietnamese lemon grass tofu, a dish that brings bold flavor to mild-tasting tofu. We briefly marinate firm tofu in a mixture of fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar, minced fresh chili and lemon grass before browning the pieces in batches in a hot skillet. When the second batch is out, we stir-fry a few aromatics, then return the tofu to the pan for a quick toss so the flavors mingle. Removing the seeds from the serrano chilies moderates their heat; if you’re a fan of spicy foods, leave the seeds in one or both of the chilies. Serve the tofu sprinkled with chopped roasted peanuts if you happen to have some on hand and with steamed jasmine rice and lime wedges alongside.