Browned Butter Sweet Potato Spoonbread

Combine cornbread and soufflé and you have Southern spoonbread. This version is gussied up for the holiday table with sweet potato, browned butter and Parmesan. Canned sweet potato puree simplifies the prep, but we drain it of excess moisture so the spoonbread won’t be sodden. If you prefer to use fresh, peel 1½ pounds orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, cut them into 1-inch chunks, cover and microwave on high until fully tender, about 5 minutes, stirring halfway through. Drain in a fine-mesh strainer for a few minutes, then mash until smooth and measure out 1½ cups for making the batter. Spoonbread is served by, well, spooning it out of the baking dish, not slicing. It’s best served warm and reheats well if made in advance. If rewarming, hold off on the final browned-butter flourish. Cover the dish with foil and place in a 375°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes; drizzle with the butter just before placing the spoonbread on the table.