Vietnamese chicken pho, or phở gà, is a lighter noodle soup than the better-known beef pho (phở bò); it also is simpler to prepare. The key to the best flavor is the broth, of course, so we take the time to make it from scratch. For ease and convenience, we forgo a clear soup and simply simmer chicken drumsticks until they give up most, but not all, of their flavor to the broth; after cooking, the meat is shredded, then added to individual bowls. Onion and fresh ginger are roasted in the oven to bring out their natural sweetness, and whole spices are toasted to enhance their flavor and aroma. These ingredients are simmered into the broth to lend the aroma and complexity characteristic of phở. As for the noodles, use dried rice sticks that are about ¼ inch wide; they’re sold in flattish packages of folded noodle skeins. Northern-style pho typically is eaten plain, without garnishes. But feel free to serve the pho southern style, with fresh Thai basil, bean sprouts and sliced jalapeño along with bottles of Sriracha and hoisin.