Cold-Start Pasta with Lemon Umami Butter

Starting pasta in cold water flies in the face of how we all learned to cook the noodles. But the method works, with the added bonus of a slightly speedier cook time. Here, for ultimate ease, we don’t even drain the noodles, and instead use the super-starchy water remaining in the pot to create a dead-easy no-cook butter sauce. Rough-textured bronze-drawn penne rigate or rigatoni is essential as this type of pasta releases abundant starch during cooking, while the ridges provide grip. De Cecco is a widely available supermarket brand that works well.