Greek Phyllo and Cream “Pie” (Bougatsa me Krema)

Bougatsa me krema is a sweet pastry from Thessaloniki, Greece. It takes different forms—from individual packets to large slabs—but it always is a marriage of crisp, flaky phyllo and a rich, pudding-like cream filling that is thickened in part with semolina. We assemble ours in an 8-inch square baking dish, buttering and sugaring each layer of phyllo, and we flavor the filling with cinnamon, lemon and vanilla. Phyllo in the U.S. typically is packaged as 9-by-14-inch sheets or larger 13-by-18-inch sheets. The former can be used as is; the latter need to be halved crosswise (use a chef’s knife to simply cut through the stack). Fully thaw the phyllo before unrolling it otherwise the delicate sheets will crack. Also, make sure to use fine, not coarse, semolina flour; Bob’s Red Mill, which is sold in most supermarkets, is a good choice. Both the flavor and texture of the filling are better when the bougatsa is fully cooled, so plan accordingly. It is best enjoyed the day of baking.