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Pasta with Ricotta, Tomatoes and Herbs
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A family owned restaurant that opened in 1936, Felice a Testaccio in Rome is known for serving up traditional fare, including tonnarelli cacio e pepe. But it was the spaghetti alla Felice that caught our attention during a recent visit. Piping-hot, just-drained al dente pasta was tossed with grape tomatoes, olive oil, a mixture of fresh herbs and ricotta cheese. The dish was creamy but not at all heavy, and the bright, fresh flavors and textures were simple and elegant. Adapting the recipe, we learned that good-quality whole-milk ricotta is key. Look for a brand made without gums or stabilizers; it will taste purer and sweeter and have a superior texture. As for the herbs, use a mix of a few types listed in the recipe to achieve a wide spectrum of flavors, from anise sweetness to menthol freshness, hints of citrus to earthy, woodsy notes. If you choose to add marjoram and/or oregano, do so sparingly, as they are very assertive herbs.
4
Servings
Don’t use more than 7 cups of water to boil the pasta. It’s a scant amount, but intentionally so. The pasta cooking water is added to the sauce and noodles as they’re tossed; its starchiness loosens the sauce and helps it cling to the linguine.
45 minutes
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2
pints grape or cherry tomatoes, halved
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¼
teaspoon white sugar
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¼
cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to serve
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Kosher salt and ground black pepper
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1½
cups finely chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as mint, basil, thyme, oregano and/or marjoram (see headnote)
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1
15- to 16-ounce container whole-milk ricotta cheese
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1
pound spaghetti or linguine
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Finely grated Parmesan cheese, to serve
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01In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, sugar, ¼ cup of the oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Toss, then, using a potato masher, gently crush the tomatoes until they release some juice. Let stand at room temperature for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
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02To the tomato mixture, add the herbs and fold until incorporated. Stir in 1 cup of the ricotta; set aside. In a small bowl, stir together the remaining ricotta, the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper; set aside.
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03In a large pot, bring 7 cups water to a boil. Stir in the pasta and 1 teaspoon salt, then cook, stirring often, until the pasta is al dente. Drain the pasta in a colander set in a large heatproof bowl. Shake the colander to remove as much water as possible, then add the pasta to the tomato-ricotta mixture; reserve the cooking water. Using tongs, toss to combine, adding reserved pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time until the sauce clings to the noodles.
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04Divide the pasta among individual bowls, drizzle with additional oil and serve, offering the seasoned ricotta and Parmesan cheese on the side.