Penne with Preserved Lemon and Pecorino

Preserved lemons—a North African ingredient most often associated with Morocco—bring citrus intensity, complex flavor and a pleasant funkiness to this one-pot pasta dish. Look for preserved lemons sold in jars in the international aisle of well-stocked supermarkets, or make your own with our recipe, but note the fruits require at least a month to cure. With this cold-start pasta method, bronze-drawn penne rigate or rigatoni is key, as the ridges and rough texture release plenty of starch during cooking; widely available De Cecco brand is a solid choice. That starchiness is the base for the light, clingy sauce. Pecorino pepato is a firm cheese studded with black peppercorns. Traditional pepato from Sicily is made with sheep’s milk, but cow’s milk and blended versions might be easier to source. Pecorino Romano works beautifully, too.