If you’re wondering what the advantage is of using a skillet to make pizza, know the following: 1) You can skip the hour-long heating of a pizza steel or stone. 2) There’s no fumbling with a pizza peel to get the pie into and out of the oven. 3) Your oven will remain free and clear of semolina that must be wiped up lest it later turn to ash. And in terms of results, a skillet-cooked pizza bakes up with a nicely browned bottom crust with a rich, almost fried crispness. The “baking” starts on the stovetop but finishes in the oven, so you will need a heavy-bottomed skillet, preferably not cast iron (because it’s slow to heat), that can withstand 500°F. You can use homemade, store-bought or pizzeria-purchased dough for this recipe. Each pie requires 12 ounces of dough; if you bought refrigerated dough, portion it out, shape each portion into a ball and allow it to come to room temperature, covered with a kitchen towel, on an oiled baking sheet. Finocchiona is a type of salami made with fennel seeds. If you cannot find it, simply use your favorite type of hard salami; pepperoni would work well, too. Or, if you prefer, skip the salami and onion toppings and make simple cheese pizzas.