These light, lemony doughnuts are our adaptation of a recipe for gogoși rapide from “Tava” by Irina Georgescu. She explains that they are a quick and easy baking powder-­leavened version of Romanian gogoși, doughnuts that are made with yeasted dough that is rolled out and cut. The batter requires only a couple bowls for mixing, then 2-tablespoon portions are dropped into hot oil and fried until deep golden brown. (The simplest way to portion the batter is with a spring-loaded ice cream scoop, but in a pinch, 2 soupspoons work.) The doughnuts are fantastic simply tossed with cinnamon sugar, but serving them with cherry jam and crème fraîche is a flourish that makes them similar to papanași, a Romanian dessert of fried cheese-­enriched dough topped with spoonfuls of fruit jam and smetana (a type of soured cream).