There is nothing like a market stall piled high with cabbages in a huge variety of shades from pure white to bright lime green or deep purplish red. Some may be larger than your head, their huge leaves used for stuffing; some may be small and crunchy and perfect for salad; some may be more fibrous, lending themselves to slow stewing. White cabbage is possibly the most underrated of all, but we absolutely love it. This is hands down the best way to eat any cabbage. You don’t even really need the dressing if you don’t fancy it – just grill a cabbage and eat it. Reprinted with permission from Itamar Srulovich & Sarit Packer's Chasing Smoke: Cooking Over Fire Around the Levant by Itamar Srulovich & Sarit Packer (Pavilion, 2021). Photographs copyright © 2021 by Patricia Niven.