This robust beef broth gets rich color and deep flavor by first roasting beef shanks and vegetables before slowly simmering on the stovetop. Dried shiitake mushrooms lend loads of umami to the broth; they’re optional, so feel free to skip them, or just toss in a couple if you don’t want to use a full ounce. A tall, narrowish stockpot with a capacity of about 8 quarts works best because it allows less evaporation than a wider Dutch oven. If you only have a wide Dutch oven, partially cover the pot during simmering so the broth does not over-reduce. After simmering, the meat on the shanks will be fall-off-the-bone tender; it won’t have much flavor, but it can be repurposed. If using the broth right away, after straining make sure to use a spoon to skim off the fat on the surface. If making ahead, however, the easiest way to defat the broth is to refrigerate it until fully chilled, then scrape off the congealed fat.