Masala-Spiced French Fries

Name: Masala-Spiced French Fries
Yield: 4 to 6 Servings
Ingredients: 3 pounds russet potatoes; 3 tablespoons white vinegar; Kosher salt and ground black pepper; 1 tablespoon ground cumin; 1 1/4 teaspoons ground ginger; 1 1/4 teaspoons Kashmiri chili powder (see headnote); 1/3 cup potato starch; 2 quarts peanut or canola oil

Adapted by Courtney Hill

4 to 6 Servings

1½ hours

Free

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At Hyderabadi Spice in East Ham, London, chef Zuber Momin offers a South Asian take on french fries. He dusts freshly fried potatoes with a mix of spices, including chaat masala, a blend that includes amchoor (green mango powder) and black salt. For our version, we settled on a french fry formula that calls for simmering cut, rinsed potatoes in salted acidulated water, a technique from cookbook author J. Kenji López-Alt. The salt seasons the potatoes while the vinegar helps them retain their shape and aids with crisping. Before frying, we toss the spuds with potato starch (use potato starch, not potato flour) mixed with spices. The starch gives the cooked potatoes even lighter, crispier surfaces. For the spicing, we use a blend of cumin, ground ginger and Kashmiri chili powder (you can substitute ¾ teaspoon sweet paprika plus ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper for the chili). If you prefer chaat masala, skip the spices; instead toss 1½ tablespoons chaat masala with the potato starch, then season each batch of hot fries with an additional 1½ to 2 teaspoons chaat masala, plus salt and pepper.

4 to 6

Servings

Tip

Don’t use any type of potato other than russet for making french fries. Their high starch content is key for obtaining light and fluffy interiors, and delicately crisp exteriors. When frying, be sure the pot is not overcrowded. Too many potatoes added at once will cause the oil temperature to drop. We had best results frying in three batches.

1½ hours

3 pounds russet potatoes

3 tablespoons white vinegar

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 1/4 teaspoons ground ginger

1 1/4 teaspoons Kashmiri chili powder (see headnote)

1/3 cup potato starch

2 quarts peanut or canola oil

Ingredients

3

pounds russet potatoes
3

tablespoons white vinegar
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1

tablespoon ground cumin
1¼

teaspoons ground ginger
1¼

teaspoons Kashmiri chili powder (see headnote)
⅓

cup potato starch
2

quarts peanut or canola oil

Directions

01

Fill a large bowl with water. Peel the potatoes and drop them into the water to prevent discoloring. Remove 1 potato at a time from the water and slice it lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick planks. Stack a few planks at a time and cut lengthwise into ¼-inch batons; return the batons to the water as they are cut. Drain the potatoes in a colander and rinse under cold water until the water runs clear. Drain again.
02

Empty the potatoes into a large Dutch oven (about 8-quart capacity); reserve the colander. Add the vinegar and 2 tablespoons salt, then add enough fresh water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a simmer over high, then reduce to medium-high and cook, uncovered and gently stirring once or twice to minimize breakage, until the potatoes are tender but hold their shape, 9 to 12 minutes. (The best way to check doneness is to remove a baton and taste it.) Meanwhile, line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. In a small bowl, whisk together the cumin, ginger, chili powder, 1½ teaspoons salt and ¾ teaspoon black pepper. Measure 1½ tablespoons of the spice mix into another small bowl; whisk the potato starch into it.
03

When the potatoes are done, gently drain them in the colander, then rinse under cold water, tossing very gently, until cool to the touch. Distribute in an even layer on the prepared baking sheet and pat dry with paper towels or a kitchen towel. (At this point, the potatoes can be covered with a kitchen towel and held at room temperature for up to 3 hours.) Sprinkle on the potato starch-spice mixture and gently toss to coat; it’s fine if some of the potatoes break into smaller pieces. Redistribute in an even layer and set aside while you heat the oil.
04

Wipe out the Dutch oven and add the oil; it should reach a depth of about 1½ inches. Heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 375°F. Meanwhile, line another baking sheet with paper towels and set it near the stove. When the oil comes up to temperature, add a handful of potatoes to a wire skimmer or large slotted spoon and gently shake to remove excess starch. Lower the potatoes into the oil and repeat until one-third of the potatoes are in the oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the fries are golden brown and crisp, 5 to 8 minutes.
05

Using the wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the fries to the prepared baking sheet; immediately sprinkle with one-third of the remaining spice mix and toss. Cook the remaining potatoes in 2 batches in the same way, allowing the oil to reach 375°F before each. Toss the fries, combining the batches, then taste and season with salt. Serve right away.