Our version of pane siciliano, or Sicilian sesame bread, has a soft, fine quality and a rustic, satisfying chew. The crumb’s golden hue comes from semolina. Milled from durum wheat and commonly used to make pasta, semolina is relatively high in protein and has a slightly more granular texture than fine cornmeal. Bob’s Red Mill, a brand widely available in supermarkets, works well, but pass on semolina labeled “coarse,” as it will give the bread an unpleasant grittiness. Sesame seeds, on the inside and exterior of the loaf, bring earthy flavor that enhances the nutty nuances of the semolina. Baking the S-shaped coiled loaf in a steamy oven allows it to rise properly before the exterior sets and helps create a crisper crust because it facilitates starch gelatinization. The dough also makes terrific buns (see the instructions below). Store leftovers in a zip-close bag at room temperature for up to four days. To refresh the loaf, wrap it in foil and warm in a 325°F oven for 15 minutes.