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Stir-Fried Cauliflower with Chilies and Scallions
Served in the Hunan and Sichuan regions of China, this dish traditionally makes use of a long-stemmed variety of cauliflower with loosely packed florets that can be stir-fried in a flash. Dense Western-style cauliflower needs longer cooking, so we first brown the florets in a hot skillet, then add a little water to create steam to finish cooking them through. Be sure to cut the cauliflower into 1-inch pieces to keep the cooking time brief. Traditionally, thinly sliced pork belly flavors the stir-fry, but we opt for easier-to-find pancetta.
tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil, plus more if needed
pounds cauliflower (about ½ large head), trimmed and cut into 1-inch florets (about 5 cups)