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Served in the Hunan and Sichuan regions of China, this dish traditionally makes use of a long-stemmed variety of cauliflower with loosely packed florets that can be stir-fried in a flash. Dense Western-style cauliflower needs longer cooking, so we first brown the florets in a hot skillet, then add a little water to create steam to finish cooking them through. Be sure to cut the cauliflower into 1-inch pieces to keep the cooking time brief. Traditionally, thinly sliced pork belly flavors the stir-fry, but we opt for easier-to-find pancetta.
Servings
Don't use cooking sherry, which contains salt and sometimes preservatives. Instead, look for an inexpensive bottle of dry sherry from the wine store or the spirits section of your supermarket.
tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil, plus more if needed
pounds cauliflower (about ½ large head), trimmed and cut into 1-inch florets (about 5 cups)
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