Nadine Redzepi, author of “Downtime: Deliciousness at Home” and wife of Noma’s René Redzepi, has a very different idea of comfort food. In Portugal, where she grew up, the village women taught her mother how to make chicken livers. Today, she still prepares them with tomatoes and chilies. (It was also the first dish she ever cooked for René.)
She also fries up thin-cut potato chips, makes a simple pasta of tomatoes and beurre blanc, solves the problem of poaching eggs by first wrapping them in plastic wrap, serves crispy fried pork and potatoes, a Danish favorite, and plays with an infinitely variable sheet pan cake, improvising with toppings.
One version of the sheet pan cake also is a Danish classic: drømmekage (dream cake), which is frosted with a caramelized coconut topping. Though it often is served to children as an after-school treat, Nadine transformed the recipe into something more suited to adults.
It’s a classic cake recipe: cream butter and sugar, add the eggs one at a time, then the flour and dairy in batches. The frosting is made on the stovetop. After the cake is frosted, it finishes in the oven.
At Milk Street, we fiddled with the ingredients a bit, swapping heavy cream for milk, for example, and found that finishing the cake under a broiler provided a crispy coconut top layer with a gooey frosting underneath, a lovely combination of textures.
So, the choice is yours. Head to Noma in Copenhagen for a taste of René’s locally foraged cuisine or stay at home and enjoy a big slice of Nadine’s dream cake. Both offer a unique taste of Denmark.