French green lentils (also called lentils du Puy) have a peppery, earthy flavor and toothsome texture that works well with a variety of flavors. And once cooked, they keep for up to five days in the refrigerator, making them an ideal base from which to build numerous meals.

As with any legume, French green lentils soak up flavor from anything added to their cooking liquid. That’s why I like to add garlic, a halved onion and bay leaves. Carrots, fennel or celery stalks, parsley or thyme sprigs also are good. Once brought to a simmer, cook low and slow to coax out flavor from the aromatics and prevent the lentils from bursting.

Green lentils are delicious served warm with just a splash of olive oil and crusty bread, or can be paired with a sharp vinaigrette, garlicky sausages or roasted vegetables. Try mixing a cup into your favorite marinara with a splash of red wine to spoon over chunky pasta, or blend with buttery sautéed fennel and scallions to lay beneath roasted salmon or chicken.

Be sure to rinse and sort lentils well; I nearly always find a tiny pebble or dirt clod hidden among them. For a basic pot of seasoned lentils, yielding roughly 6 cups:
2 bay leaves
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and halved
1 medium carrot, cut into 3 pieces
1 garlic bulb, top third cut off and discarded
8 sprigs fresh thyme, tied together, or 1 teaspoon of dried thyme
1 árbol chili (optional)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 cups green lentils du Puy, sorted and rinsed

In a large saucepan, combine everything but the lentils with and 8 cups water; bring to a simmer. Add the lentils, return to a simmer, then partially cover and reduce to low. Cook until tender, but not breaking apart, 40 to 45 minutes. Drain, discarding the bay, vegetables and thyme sprigs (if using). Reserve the garlic; when cool enough to handle, squeeze out the cloves, then mince to a paste and fold into the lentils. Taste and season with salt.

How to use:

Lentil Salad with Gorgonzola and Walnuts: In a small bowl, stir 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar and 1 finely minced shallot or small red onion. Allow to sit for 10 minutes, then whisk in ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, kosher salt, black pepper and honey to taste. Use to dress warm, drained lentils, then fold in chopped parsley and a handful of toasted walnuts. Top with crumbled Gorgonzola (or other piquant blue or goat cheese).

Lebanese Spiced Pilaf: For a quick riff on Lebanese Lentils and Rice (mujaddara), blend equal parts cooked lentils (heated if refrigerated) and cooked white or brown rice, and a large pinch each of allspice, cinnamon and cumin. Drizzle with browned butter and serve topped with crispy fried shallots or onions (purchased is fine). If you like, add pine nuts and serve with Greek yogurt and harissa.

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