Milk Street’s Hannah Packman tasted her way through the Irish city of Dublin and coastal Galway. Here are her favorite (and less than favorite) dishes.

Dela: 8.5/10

51 Dominick St Lower, Galway

A bit jet lagged and stomachs grumbling, we woke up in Galway and ambled over to our first breakfast in Ireland. The idyllic 20 minute walk through Eyre Square and the Latin Quarter boasted pedestrian-only cobblestone streets teeming with shops, cafes and traditional pubs playing live music. And tucked away on a quaint street we found Dela. The farm, eatery and roastery—with high ratings on multiple “best of” lists—has been around for over a decade and is open for dinner, but we were drawn there by rave reviews of a good, hearty farm-fresh breakfast.

Creamy and cold with just a touch of vanilla and deep espresso flavor, this was the best coffee I had the entire trip. Hands down. No artificial syrup or weak coffee in sight. It was the perfect sip to start the day.

When my breakfast arrived, I nearly started breaking into it before snapping a photo (this was a recurring theme). Nestled on a perfectly toasted piece of garlic ciabatta sat Garryhinch Wood mushrooms, sautéed kale and a beautiful fried egg with the yolk dying to burst. The masterpiece was topped with a hint of truffle oil and paired with crispy, crunchy breakfast potatoes. Savory, umami-packed and full of texture. A hearty meal to fuel me for a day of exploring.

Ard Bia at Nimmos: 10/10

Spanish Arch, The Long Walk, Galway

After about seven miles of walking around misty Galway (and a quick nap), we were ready for dinner. Our destination: Ard Bia at Nimmos. A quirky restaurant, shop and B&B right by the water, Ard Bia works with seasonal, local ingredients to bring diners rustic yet refined dishes with international flavors.

Following a crisp glass of sauvignon blanc, we started with aubergine fritters served alongside a miso aioli and topped with togarashi. The balancing act of crunchy breading and creamy eggplant felt like the grown-up version of a french fry, offset by pops of sesame and seaweed, plus an umami-packed sauce on the side for dipping.

Our appetizer was succeeded by a gorgeous plate of black sole served with samphire, pea puree, spring onion rosti, asparagus, chard and lime butter. Uber-flaky, and seared til beautifully golden, this fish was light, pairing beautifully with the latke-like potato rosti and symphony of green on the plate. I didn’t lick the plate because I tried to be civilized—but that pea purée almost got the best of me.

And—because we couldn’t risk going hungry!—a plate of hand-rolled tagliatelle with a surprising combination of high-impact flavors. Tender strands of pasta were intertwined with salty olives and sweet tomatoes, all coated in silky, chili-spiced butter. The quality and intention of each ingredient in this dish was apparent: garden freshness, buttery richness, briny depth, and a touch of heat. No crazy, fancy techniques. Just everything executed flawlessly. Simplicity at its finest.

But we weren’t done...dessert. A tart raspberry clafoutis and lemon curd with Italian meringue, crumble and rhubarb-ginger stem ice cream helped finish off the meal on the sweetest note. Creamy, toasty, sour, bitter, spicy, it was all there—everything you never knew you needed in desserts. If you’re in Galway, I wouldn’t miss this one.

Dough Bros: 9/10

Cathedral Buildings, 1 Middle St, Galway

After a full-day journey exploring the Cliffs of Moher—spectacular, verdant cliffs so cinematic that they’ve featured in The Princess Bride and Harry Potter—it was time for the prize. Enter famed Dough Bros pizzeria, ranked 37th Best Pizzeria in the World by Big 7 Travel. It was founded by two chefs looking to introduce Neapolitan-style pizza, with a mix of local ingredients and high-impact flavor additions, to Ireland. And they delivered.

Their sweet-spicy spin on sausage pizza features fresh ingredients from Cork—mozzarella from Toons Bridge Dairy and chorizo from Gubbeen Smokehouse—plus an added spicy-sweet twist of hot honey. At first glance, it looks pretty standard. But on the first bite, I realized the ultra-creamy mozzarella and sweet notes of honey leveled out the zingy chorizo with a finesse most other sausage renditions don’t achieve.

The Cheese & Onion was what I considered an ode to the surplus of cows grazing everywhere I turned. Atop a deeply satisfying layer of four mild, milky Irish cheeses (Templegall, Kylemore Mature, Smocked Knockanore and Toons Bridge Dairy fresh mozzarella), it added speckles of well-chosen flavor kicks: Worcester, red onion, crispy shallots, and a dose of black pepper. It felt familiar yet so Irish—the kind of bite that brings you out of your body for second. I’m still dreaming of this pie.

Lemon Crepe & Coffee Co: 7/10

66 William St S, Dublin

An early morning train ride saw us off to Dublin after a few lovely days in Galway. We quickly dropped our bags off at our hotel and strolled down the wide, brick avenue of Grafton Street, searching for a spot to have a bite to eat. Being a Sunday, most sit-down restaurants were closed. I must admit, I had a moment of hunger-panic about where our next meal would come from.

Fear not, though! We rounded the corner after some frantic walking and laid eyes on Lemon Crepe & Coffee Co. The heavenly scent of fresh crepes was enough to entice me in the door. Wrapped up in an airy triangle, my egg, cheese, mushroom, onion and bacon crepe was just the thing to tide me over for an afternoon of shopping. Quick, casual and comforting.

Brasserie Sixty6: 6/10

66-67 South Great George's Street, Dublin

I think we did our first dinner in Dublin wrong.

Being a Sunday, most restaurants serve traditional Sunday roasts—including Brasserie Sixty6, where we made our reservation. And the stylish eatery, we later found out, is best known for these roasts, especially their beef, which is hung for 21 days. But I skipped the Sunday roast, instead opting for Shepherd’s Pie—the parmesan potato topping and buttery baby vegetables were just too tempting. I should have stuck to the hot ticket item.

I must admit I was underwhelmed. The hearty dish was tasty, the vegetables crisp and the potato topping fluffy, but it didn’t knock my socks off. Knowing now that the roasts are the thing to come for, I’d like a re-do.

Queen of Tarts: 8/10

Cow's Ln, Temple Bar, Dublin

A rather gloomy, rainy day couldn’t stop my excitement—we had a full day of eating (and walking) planned. To fuel, we started our morning at Queen of Tarts, a sweet little café near Temple Bar serving up fresh baked goods from traditional scones to over-the-top cakes. As soon as I sat down in the no-frills booth, I could instantly tell we were in for a treat.

Our eyes were bigger than our stomachs (per usual), so we ordered two pastries and an egg dish to share. The chocolate scone, topped and filled with Nutella was as decadent as it sounds—especially covered in homemade raspberry preserves—while the cinnamon-cardamom swirl got better with each spiced bite. We could have been satisfied with just those treats, but the cheesy scrambled eggs atop a feta sun-dried tomato scone fully did us in. We left breakfast satiated and in need of some movement.

Fish Shop: 10/10

76 Benburb St, Smithfield, Dublin

Fish Shop may have been my favorite spot in all of Dublin. The small menu befits the petite restaurant, an intimate wine bar that’s bright and cozy, offering only counter seats. The attraction? Locally-caught seafood, uncomplicated and clean, paired with an artisanal wine list.

Between sips of sparkling water, we enjoyed perhaps the best fish and chips I’ve ever tasted. Light, flaky beer-battered hake, doused in vinegar and lemon. Hand-cut chips, fried twice, for an extra crispy result that’s still pillowy on the inside. And, of course, tartar sauce. A no-frills butterhead salad with mustard vinaigrette emphasized that sometimes the best solution is the simplest. It was the kind of meal that reminded me why I love being a food writer. I was in a trance. A must-go in Dublin.

Rooftop at Sophie’s: 8.5/10

33 Harcourt St, Saint Kevin's, Dublin 2

Known for being a trendy weekend spot, the Rooftop at Sophie’s was our dinner destination. A mixture of heavy rain and a glimmer of sun made for some spectacular light at this hotel restaurant, which boasts 360 degree views of the Dublin cityscape.

To start, we noshed on a gorgeous antipasti board, complete with mortadella, prosciutto, Milano salami, feta dip, olives and homemade bread. Satisfying, balanced and delicious accompanied with a glass of wine.

We moved on to beef fillet, paired with carrot purée, truffle and almond cauliflower, with mushroom and pearl onion jus. It was more traditional bistro fare: a juicy steak, doused in a dark, rich sauce, the kind you'll order off any high-end menu with reliably satisfactory results.

And for a few extra veggies, a roasted Mediterranean vegetable salad with garlic and honey vinegar dressing. Both plates were an adventure in textures, expertly walking the line between creamy, tender and crunchy. The dressing on the salad added just enough zing to temper the meaty flavor of roasted eggplant and zucchini. I didn't need to go to Dublin for this menu—it lacked the local charm of, say, Fish Shop or Ard Bia—but it's certainly worth it for the views. We left happily satiated and very ready for bed.

Brother Hubbard: 9/10

153 Capel Street Dublin 1, Dublin

On our last full day (cue a heavy sigh) we made our way to Brother Hubbard, an award-winning cafe which now boasts four locations and an appearance on Somebody Feed Phil under its belt. Come for the abundant, well-travelled brunch menu, such as fresh-baked babka, cardamom-spiced carrot cake, or pulled pork croque madame with tahini-lemon slaw.

Instead, I ordered myself The Basic: complete with homemade Georgian-style sourdough lightly toasted with real Irish butter, two eggs scrambled, grilled bacon and warm roasted tomato. And I must say, that tomato really made the meal. Fluffy scrambled eggs, craggy homemade bread seeping with Irish butter, super savory bacon, all smothered in jammy-spiced tomato. SO good. And simple. Every bite got better and better. If you can’t tell by now, breakfast is my favorite meal of the day.

Scrumdiddly’s: 8/10

4 Crofton Rd., Dún Laoghaire, Dublin

A quick train ride on the DART landed us in the cute seaside town of Dún Laoghaire. And we were there for one reason and one reason only: ice cream. A friend’s recommendation (their words “the best ice cream sundae ever") led us to bustling area for a walk along the pier and a sundae at the hidden gem: Scrumdiddly’s. You could smell the sweet air wafting out of the bright pink and blue shop before even rounding the corner, so even if we hadn’t known about the place, we likely still would have stopped.

I ordered the Biscoff Bliss: a mangled, delightful mess of sweet cream soft serve, Biscoff cookie crumbles, buttery Biscoff sauce and full Biscoff biscuits to top it off. It was a sugar bomb of crunchy-creamy goodness. And no, I didn’t even finish half. Still totally worth it.

Sprezzatura: 9/10

Camden Market 5/6, Dublin 8

For dinner on our final night, we strolled over to Sprezzatura, a cozy spot that combines classic Italian technique with local Irish ingredients. It was only right to start with Arancini, fried rice balls, packed with four Irish cheeses: Cacciocavalo, cashel blue, and smoked cheddar. Fried to perfection, it oozed with cheesy goodness, ready to dip into a sauce of more cheesy goodness. Irish cheese is known for a reason after all—and this mix of smoky, funky, and milky cheeses showcased its layers of flavor in one bite.

To follow, we split a pappardelle with spicy fennel sausage ragu and fettucine cacio e pepe, made with cais na tire cheese and black pepper. Saucy, spicy, creamy, tender noodles, it’s hard to find anything wrong with pasta. And this pasta could do no wrong. I couldn’t have asked for a better (cheesy) final dinner.

Tang: 9.5/10

23c Dawson Street, Dublin

A reluctant wakeup on Wednesday, the last day of the trip. But we couldn’t leave without a final breakfast—and we picked a good one. Tang, yet another charming cafe, encapsulated the sense of community, bounty, and thoughtful preparation that defined all of our best meals in Ireland. Its plates are filled with local, sustainably-produced ingredients, inflected with Middle Eastern flavors.

As we’d found in so many cases, a traditional plate of scrambled eggs (organic, Wicklow eggs) was nothing close to run-of-the-mill: perked up by a not-too-powerful shock of chili oil, balanced by the nutty depth of the Egyptian spice blend dukkah. With a myriad of colors and textures playing together in tandem, it was both a work of art on the plate and a masterclass in balance. Creamy, crunchy, nutty, just a touch of heat.

As we watched the commuters passing by on the narrow historic streets across the way, every so often stopping inside for a cappuccino, I reflected on the sense of place in Irish cuisine—deep ties to the lush countryside and traditional fare, while welcoming a world of bold flavors. The ideal sendoff back to Boston.

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