None of that is acceptable to Chris Kimball, which is why he’s so particular about the cocktail. “I’m really persnickety about everything, but about this—it has to be done just right,” he said in a recent episode of Milk Street Radio. The details of Chris’ old fashioned might seem unorthodox, but these modifications aren’t gimmicks; nothing is there for the sake of itself, and some things—like fruit—are entirely absent.
Use two types of whiskey
Old fashioneds are made with whiskey, either bourbon or rye. Bourbon is on the sweeter side, made primarily from corn, with notes of vanilla, caramel, butterscotch, maple, or even marzipan, depending on the oak barrels used during the aging process. Rye is a naturally spicier grain and makes a spicier whiskey, with notes of pepper and baking spices.
Chris uses both spirits for a more balanced cocktail. “It’s really important to mix bourbon and rye,” he said, “Rye is, as you know, spicy, and it offsets the sweetness.” Bourbon smooths, mellows and lightens rye’s strong character, while rye balances bourbon’s slightly syrupy qualities.
Use two types of bitters
Bitters are the spice rack of the cocktail bar. They’re a highly concentrated alcoholic infusion of herbs, spices, and other botanicals. Angostura is the by far the most popular brand. It gets most of its flavor from gentian root, a bitter-tasting, historically medicinal herb, and it’s the reason bitters are called “bitters.”
Chris uses a dash of Angostura in his old fashioned, but he’ll also add a dash of “something else.” “Orange bitters. I’ve actually tried chocolate bitters, which is great. Cardamom. Just to add another flavor,” he said. Adding a less traditional bitter lets you play around with the flavor profile without destroying your drink. Chocolate syrup would ruin an old fashioned, but chocolate bitters add a hint of flavor, without obscuring the bourbon and rye.
Water is an important ingredient
Even the stiffest drinks need a little water. “I think it’s important to slightly dilute it because at over 85% proof, you only taste the alcohol, you can’t taste the other flavors.” It’s the same reason scotch drinkers add a few drops of water to their snifter—too much alcohol and the surface becomes saturated with ethanol molecules, and other flavorful molecules get driven down into the glass, which makes it harder for your palate to detect them.
Use “medium” ice cubes
“I like to use medium cubes in the glass,” he said. Ice cube size isn’t something everyone considers when mixing a drink. I asked Chris how he felt about the giant cubes and spheres that are so popular. “The reason I do not like them is more about sound than sight or dilution,” he said. “I like the sound of multiple cubes in a glass and the feeling of holding that glass.”
He also feels strongly that cocktails ought to be consumed "‘cold and fast." "There is a little dilution even with the medium cubes. I hate small cubes or crappy bar ice cubes which melt fast and destroy the cocktail in just minutes. I would say 15 minutes is the absolute outside for drinking a cocktail but 10 minutes is about right." Chris has history on his side here. To quote the original celebrity bartender, and author of The Savoy Cocktail Book, Harry Craddock, the best way to drink a cocktail is "Quickly, while it’s laughing at you!"
No fruit. At all.
“Don’t put in those super sweet nasty cherries.” he said. “No fruit. Please. At all.” He’s not just talking about violently red sundae cherries; even luxury brands like Luxardo can add a syrupy note that distracts from all the other wonderful flavors in your glass. Even though there are so few ingredients, whiskey and bitters are flavorful ingredients, with lots of nuance to appreciate. Don’t wreck that nuance with sugary fruit.
If, however, you want to eat a Luxardo cherry for dessert, by all means. They are candy after all.
Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, TikTok and Pinterest.
And if you're looking for more Milk Street, check out our livestream cooking classes with our favorite chefs, home cooks and friends for global recipes, cooking methods and more.
