Ode to Madeleine

By Christopher Kimball

On a recent trip to Paris, I stopped by Jouvence restaurant, where, seven years ago, chef Romain Thibault began serving baked-to-order warm madeleines for dessert. This was at a time when the French started craving updated classic bistro dishes, including fluffy rice pudding served with a burnt caramel cream and a bowl of broken nougat (chef Stéphane Jégo at L’Ami Jean); Paris flan, a deep dish slice of custard pie (Stéphane Jimenez at Amazonia); and a new-style French onion soup...

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