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Banana-Hazelnut Bread
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At the ultra-modern Black Isle Bakery in Berlin, owner Ruth Barry bakes a small array of simple but well-crafted treats—homey, inviting goodies such as loaf cakes, cookies, buns and tarts. We think her banana hazelnut loaf is especially delicious, the nut and fruit flavors in perfect balance and the crumb extremely moist and tender. It also happens to be dairy- and egg-free. Once cooled, the bread will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days; after that, it can be refrigerated for a couple days longer, but bring to room temperature before serving.
1
9-inch loaf
Don’t use underripe bananas. For best flavor and texture, the unpeeled bananas should be darkly speckled on the outside and very soft on the inside. Don’t over-toast the hazelnuts. Aim for lightly golden so the nuts that are chopped and sprinkled on top of the loaf don’t become too dark during baking. If you purchased already toasted/roasted hazelnuts, there’s no need to toast them—they can be used directly from the bag.
1½ hours
30 minutes active, plus cooling
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105
grams (¾ cup) hazelnuts
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210
grams (1¾ cups) cake flour
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2
teaspoons ground cinnamon
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2
teaspoons baking powder
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1
teaspoon baking soda
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1
teaspoon kosher salt
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400
grams (1½ cups) mashed ripe bananas (from 3 to 4 large bananas)
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160
grams (¾ cup) white sugar
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⅓
cup grapeseed or other neutral oil
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2
teaspoons vanilla extract
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1
tablespoon turbinado sugar or white sugar
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01Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. Put the hazelnuts in a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan and toast in the oven until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Cool to room temperature. If the nuts are skin-on, rub them in a clean kitchen towel to remove as much of the skins as possible (it’s fine if some of the skins remain). Roughly chop 35 grams (¼ cup) of the hazelnuts and set aside.
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02Mist the loaf pan with cooking spray, then line it with an 8-by-14-inch piece of kitchen parchment or foil, allowing the excess to overhang the long sides of the pan. Mist the parchment or foil with cooking spray.
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03In a food processor, combine the flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, salt and remaining 70 grams (½ cup) hazelnuts. Process until the nuts are finely ground, 30 to 45 seconds. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl, then return the food processor bowl and blade to the base.
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04To the processor, add the bananas, white sugar, oil and vanilla. Process until smooth, creamy and aerated, about 30 seconds. Add the banana mixture to the dry ingredients and fold with a silicone spatula until just combined. Transfer to the prepared pan and smooth the top. Sprinkle evenly with the turbinado sugar and chopped hazelnuts. Bake until golden brown and a toothpick inserted at the center comes out clean, 50 to 55 minutes.
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05Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then lift the loaf out of the pan using the parchment or foil. Set the bread directly on the rack and cool completely. Peel off and discard the parchment or foil before slicing.
I used bananas that I had frozen earlier when they got very ripe, and this worked great. The hazelnuts give the bread a very rich flavor. I would reduce the amount of sugar, though - it is a bit sweet for me.