Cooked rice that’s been chilled until firm makes the best fried rice. When rewarmed, the grains separate easily, yielding fried rice that’s light and fluffy, not soggy and wet. Make sure to break up clumps as you add the rice to the pan. Your hands are the best tool for this task. To make the amount of cooked rice needed for each of the fried rice recipes, in a medium saucepan, combine 1½ cups long-grain white rice (rinsed and drained) and 2¼ cups water. Bring to a boil, then cover, reduce to low and cook until the water is absorbed, 13 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork, then transfer to a storage container, cool and refrigerate, covered, until cold and firm.

This basic fried rice is seasoned only with soy sauce, so the flavor is simple and clean, and each ingredient contributes taste and texture. Be sure to use a nonstick skillet; it allows the rice to develop some browning without risk of sticking. There’s no need to thaw the peas (or edamame) before use; they’ll thaw in the pan.