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Puerto Rican Slow-Cooked Pork Roast (Pérnil al Caldero)
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When readying the house for family gatherings and holidays, Teryluz Andreu’s mother, Tere, always set two extra places at the dinner table. Despite being a professor and busy mother of four, Tere was a generous hostess, welcoming any guest who might stop by on a whim. When feeding a crowd, her go-to was pérnil al caldero: a Puerto Rican staple of succulent slow-cooked pork with shatteringly crisp skin. Pérnil is a pork roast, usually either the shoulder or ham, and caldero refers to the dish’s cooking vessel—an aluminum pot with rounded sides, a tight-fitting lid and excellent heat conduction. For Andreu, who recently relocated to Miami by way of Chicago, the dish is a reminder of celebratory times and growing up in Humacao, a small beach town in southeastern Puerto Rico. When she set out to replicate her mother’s pérnil, Andreu knew how to make the adobo: a garlicky, oregano-spiced marinade enhanced by tangy white vinegar. But achieving the dish’s characteristic crisp skin on the outside, with juicy meat inside, “evaded her every time.” Through many rounds of testing, we found the best way to ensure fall-apart-tender meat as well as golden, crackling skin was by braising the roast stovetop, then removing the skin as a single piece and frying it in a skillet. Of course, a caldero is the traditional choice for preparing pérnil al caldero, but a large Dutch oven (one with a capacity of 7 to 8 quarts) works perfectly well.
8
Servings
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15
medium garlic cloves, peeled, divided
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2
tablespoons dried oregano, divided
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3
tablespoons white vinegar, divided, plus more to taste
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2
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
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Kosher salt and ground black pepper
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5-7
pound bone-in, skin-on Boston butt roast or pork picnic shoulder
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1½
cups grapeseed, vegetable or other neutral oil
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01In a mortar, combine 10 garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon oregano, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1½ tablespoons kosher salt and 1 tablespoon pepper. Pound with the pestle to form a smooth paste.
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02Using a sharp, slender knife, pull back the skin of the pork with one hand while cutting horizontally into the fat between the skin and meat to remove the skin in a single piece, leaving it attached, or hinged, along one edge. With the skin peeled back, rub the garlic-herb paste on all sides of the roast; do not coat the surface of the skin. Replace the skin. Wrap the roast tightly with plastic wrap and set on a large plate. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours but preferably longer (up to 24 hours).
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03When ready to cook, unwrap the roast and pat it dry with paper towels. In a large (at least 7-quart) Dutch oven or caldero over medium-high, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil until barely smoking. Add the pork skin side up and cook until well browned on the bottom, 5 to 7 minutes. Add 2 to 3 cups water around, not over, the pork to a depth of about 1½ inches; the amount of water will vary depending on the diameter of the pot and size of the roast. Scatter the remaining 5 garlic cloves and the remaining 1 tablespoon oregano into the liquid around the pork. Bring to a boil, then cover the pot, reduce to low and simmer gently until the center of the pork (not touching bone) registers 195°F, or a skewer inserted into the meat meets no resistance, about 5 hours; if the liquid evaporates, add more water to maintain a depth of about 1½ inches.
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04Remove the pot from the heat. Transfer the roast to a large plate and tent it with foil. Tilt the pot to pool the liquid to one side and use a wide spoon to skim off and discard as much fat as possible from the surface. Using a potato masher, mash the garlic cloves until smooth. You should have about 2 cups cooking liquid. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar, then taste and season with pepper; set aside.
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05Using the sharp, slender knife, cut the skin free from the roast and place it fatty side up on a cutting board. With a soupspoon, carefully scrape off and discard as much fat as possible. Pour the neutral oil into a 12-inch nonstick skillet, then place the skin fatty side up in the pan. Partially cover and cook over low, occasionally shaking the pan, until the skin is golden brown and crisped on the bottom, 25 to 30 minutes. Uncover and wipe any condensation from the inside of the lid. Flip the skin, partially re-cover and cook until the second side is golden brown and crisped, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet.
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06Remove and discard the bone from the pork. Slice the pork or cut it into chunks. Arrange on a large platter and pour some of the juices over the meat. Cut the crisped skin into pieces and scatter over the pork. Serve with the remaining juices on the side.