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Spaghetti with Prosciutto, Parmesan and Peas
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In Rome, we learned to make pasta alla papalina—a lighter, brighter riff on classic carbonara. The dish has been popular since the 1920s, when, as the story goes, Cardinal Pacelli, who later became Pope Pius XII, asked chef Cesertto Simmi to create a more elegant take on the Italian staple. Simmi swapped the traditional pairing of guanciale and pecorino Romano for prosciutto and Parmesan: a slightly less robust yet equally delicious combination. Our version was inspired by chef Andrea Dell’Omo of restaurant Mamma Angelina, who prepared for us a breathtakingly good rendition. We’ve incorporated frozen peas as well, which have become a common addition; they add freshness as well as attractive pops of green.
4 to 6
Servings
Don’t worry about thawing the peas. They will “cook“ quickly when tossed with the hot pasta, retaining their bright green color and fresh flavor. Also, be sure to remove the pot from the burner before adding the egg-cheese mixture. Residual heat will gently cook the yolks, ensuring they don’t curdle but instead create a richness that coats the pasta.
40 minutes
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5
large egg yolks
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¼
cup heavy cream
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2
ounces Parmesan cheese, finely grated (1 cup), plus more to serve
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Kosher salt and ground black pepper
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1
pound spaghetti or linguine
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3
tablespoons salted butter, cut into 2 or 3 pieces
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1
small red onion, finely chopped
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4
ounces sliced prosciutto, cut into ¼-inch ribbons
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1
cup frozen peas
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01In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cream, Parmesan and 2 teaspoons pepper; set aside. In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and 1 tablespoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water, then drain and return the pasta to the pot; set aside.
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02In a 12-inch skillet over medium, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the prosciutto and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly crisped, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, transfer about one-quarter of the prosciutto-onion mixture to a small plate and reserve for garnish.
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03Scrape the remaining prosciutto-onion mixture into the pasta in the pot, then add the peas and ¼ cup reserved pasta water. Cook over medium-high, stirring, until warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, add the egg-cheese mixture; stir until the sauce thickens slightly and clings to the pasta, 2 to 3 minutes. If needed, toss in reserved water 1 tablespoon at a time to adjust the consistency. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve topped with the reserved prosciutto-onion mixture and additional Parmesan.